I’ve summited Mount Washington maybe eight times, and had the privilege of covering the classic Mount Washington Road Race this past June. One spring I even skied down the Ammonoosuc Ravine.
And yet, I had never stepped foot on the mountain's Cog Railway.
When you get to the highest peak in the Northeast by a steady (or not so steady) drumbeat of placing one foot in front of the other, you tend to wave aside those who reach this destination by train. Earlier this fall, that little voice in my head said, Get over yourself. And so I welcomed the chance to experience this iconic railway.
It didn’t disappoint.
The Cog Railway was the brainchild of 19th-century businessman Sylvester Marsh, who wanted to provide safe access to Mount Washington at a time when tourism was beginning to flourish across the White Mountains. Today, accessibility is a key to these trains, as conductors showcase the magnificence of this mountain.
The “railway to the moon” opened on July 3, 1869 — at the time, there were two hotels on the summit.
Spirit of Innovation
Fascination with Mount Washington and its amazing views and weather continues to chug along . . . right along with The Cog, which is celebrating its 155th year in 2024.
Wayne Presby, owner and operator, bought the Cog Railway back in 1983 when he was just 26.
“To have the opportunity to operate something that is so unique and that is such a vital part of New Hampshire tourism, and such an iconic attraction, was an incredible gift,” Presby told me after my visit.
They threw a big 155th anniversary party last month that was part homage to the spirit and innovation of Sylvester Marsh.
It also highlighted ongoing innovation, such as new equipment in the shop like robotic welding systems. Presby’s team is also working with engineering students from the University of New Hampshire to develop an all-electric locomotive; that would be added to the fleet of biodiesel and steam trains.
He speaks of it as preserving the history of the place, but also creating some new history.
The Cog Railway welcomes between 150,000 and 160,000 riders a year, according to Presby. Summer is its busiest season, of course, but autumn is also popular. Through Oct. 14, they offer a foliage viewing trip to mid-mountain on one of their vintage coal-fired steam locomotives.
The Cog operates both steam and biodiesel trains to the summit during the season. It’s a roundtrip of about three hours, with an hour at the summit. The summit visitor facilities are owned and operated by Mount Washington State Park.
Due to extreme weather in winter, The Cog does not take passengers to the summit from late October through early May, but it does go to Waumbek Station, elevation 4,000 feet.
The Cog has even played a role in hiker rescues, notably one last February, when it assisted New Hampshire Fish and Game officers and the Androscoggin Valley Search and Rescue Team with a hiker who was underprepared for the ferocious weather at the higher summits.
'Railway to the Moon'
From the base, the Cog climbs about 3 miles to the summit. The average grade is over 25%, with a maximum grade is 37.41%.
On the ride to the summit, the Cog passes through distinct climate zones, with the top known as the alpine zone. Others include the “Krummholz” (“twisted wood”) and boreal forest zone below. At the summit, you gain 20 minutes of daylight.
These are the kind of factoids you consume on the journey to the top.
Wish You Were Here
Being on the summit on a nice sunny day evokes different emotions. You’re far removed, surrounded by the White Mountains backcountry — and yet you’re not far from some creature comforts at the Sherman Adams Summit Building, named in honor of the former New Hampshire governor who was also chief of staff to President Eisenhower.
The summit even has a U.S. Post Office. You can buy a postcard and send it from the roof of New England. I dashed off a “wish you were here” note to my 9-year-old niece.
We saw at least three gift shops: One operated by Mount Washington State Park, and another cool one by the Mount Washington Observatory. (There’s a stuffed toy kitty of celebrated Observatory summit mascot Nimbus, which I regret not buying — but they have online sales.)
At the check-out counter down at the railway base, you can buy a real Cog Railway spike for $9 (old ones used before 2022). And of course they have their online shop.
There’s also a museum that celebrates the history of the Cog, and inventiveness of Sylvester Marsh — and the weather.
The Cog, like Mount Washington, is a never-ending story about weather.
The “World’s Worst Weather”
On our recent trip, Mount Washington provided spectacular views. We could see across the northeast, and into Canada. In our interview later, Presby pointed out that some visitors board The Cog with the express purpose of experiencing some notorious weather at the summit.
“A lot of people really come to enjoy the dramatic weather as much as people come to see the fantastic view,” he said. “I’ve had people who have come up on beautiful days and say, 'geez, that was disappointing; I wanted to experience 60 mph winds.' ”
Mount Washington is home to the “world’s worst weather,” as our Cog conductor and guide Terry reminded passengers on the ride up.
Weather observers in 1934 recorded the highest wind speed ever recorded: 231 mph.
“You don’t want to open your umbrella in that kind of weather.”
In fact, The Cog discourages the use of umbrellas due to potential high wind gusts. The FAQ page on its website has other good pointers. I’ll add one: Bring some cash, as conductors accept tips.
As The Cog chugged along and neared where the Appalachian Mountain trail crosses Mount Washington, a group of hikers rested nearby the tracks.
And then, as passengers waved to them, one hiker turned around and dropped their shorts — perhaps they were bending over to tie their shoe, and, having lost weight on the hike, their waistband just let go?
The Cog riders behind us erupted in a mix of gasps and laughs.
Our conductor, standing at the front with his microphone, flashed his wit and shared yet another historical fact.
Well, he says, “Our name is railway to the moon.”
